P0171 and P0174 Codes - Don't Replace an Oxygen Sensor Before Reading This

So your car's Cel (Check engine Light) is on and you had the codes scanned at a local parts store. Your car has whether a P0171, P0174 lean fault code or both stored in the computer, these codes are based on Oxygen Sensor (O-2) readings. A lean code or codes indicate that there's too much oxygen in the exhaust. Remember parts stores have employees that have good intentions but they may not have the perceive critical to by comparison what the trouble codes really mean. These codes are based on oxygen measurements in the exhaust. A tasteless mistake with lean codes is to replace the oxygen sensors. This could be a very high-priced mistake that will not fix the problem. Especially if both codes are present, because the opportunity of both O-2 sensors failing at the same time is very unlikely.

Most likely the cause is a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak can be caused from a vacuum hose, intake gasket or maybe even a leak in the air intake hose from the Maf (Mass Air Flow Sensor). Listen for a hissing sound that may lead you to the source of the problem. Some technicians will use a propane bottle with a hose attachment to help pinpoint vacuum leaks. With today's computers it's not quite as easy to check for vacuum leaks this way because the Ecu (Electronic control Unit) will compensate swiftly for the added fuel and a change in idle is harder to notice. Oxygen sensor readings can be monitored with a scan tool while checking for leaks with propane, by looking for increased readings when enriching the mixture. Other way technicians can check for vacuum leaks is with a smoke test. By introducing smoke into a vacuum hose on the engine, the leak will be revealed when the smoke escapes from the problem area.

Aftermarket air filters that use oil on the element can sometimes damage the Maf. Over oiling the air filter may allow some excess to get on the Maf sensor wire or element. This can alter the reading, fooling the Ecu into looking more or less air flow therefore changing the air/fuel compound incorrectly. I once worked on a car that would not start that had a problem with a Maf. When looking at the wire in the Maf, there was a burned piece of trash that made it's way past the air filter. After cleaning the sensor the car ran perfectly. The ash that was on the Maf sensor wire was altering the reading by enriching the compound so much that the car could not run. After talking with the customer, he said the air filter was just changed. This was obviously when some trash got into the air intake hose that located on the hot wire of the Maf.

Fuel Pressure could also cause a lean condition. If the fuel filter is clogged or the fuel pump pressure is low, there could be higher level of oxygen in the exhaust also. Most of the time though, the Ecu will compensate for the reduced fuel volume. So this is one of the least likely causes of a lean code.    

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Submersible Well Pump How to Replace

Replacing a submersible well pump is not a complicated task and relatively uncomplicated if you understand the basics about a well theory - like the placement of the pump, how the submersible pump operates and how it is installed in a well casing. An developed do it yourselfer with knowledge of electrical wiring and some basic plumbing skills is probably capable of replacing a submersible irrigation pump. This is not a step by step installation guide but rather an summary for a normal insight to rate either to do it yourself or hire a contractor. The savings on the cost of labor, if you do it yourself, will be about 50 - 60% of the total price of a contractor doing the job. The first factor in deciding either to attempt doing it yourself is how deep the well is and do you have a large enough lay down area to layout the pipe in your yard once you start pulling it out of the casing. If your well is 50' to 150' deep, I would suggest doing it yourself if you are physically capable to continuously lift and pull about 40 to 70 pounds of weight and hold it in place for during the perfect removal of pump to keep from dropping it back into the well. To do this you will need at least one other someone to help you pull out the pump and guide the removal pipe away from the well as you are lifting it out.

The well casing in made of steel, iron or Pvc pipe commonly 3"or 4" inside diameter and this acts as a sleeve in which the pump housing, removal pipe and wiring go down to reach the water level within this pipe casing. Attached to the submersible pump is the removal pipe, commonly 1" to 1- ¼" flexible poly pipe and the electrical wiring which also runs into this casing to the depth of submersible pump in the well. The deeper the well, the heavier and more difficult it is to lift out. The weight of the pump assembly may require some rigging above the well casing to help lift and hold the pump assembly in place so it doesn't slip and drop back down into the well casing as you are pulling it out. Once you start pulling up of the pump you must continue the appeal until it is fully out of the casing. If you are doing this manually attach a rope beforehand to the top end of well cap so the other someone can easier hold on to it and tie it off to something - a tree or fence, in between lifts if you need to take a break and stop lifting.

"Pressure Sensor"

If you resolve to replace the well pump yourself, here are some tips to remember. resolve that the pump motor is bad by checking circuit breakers, switches and check that power is at the well head. If power is on at well head it is a good sign that the pump is broke. Turn off the power at the breaker panel, tag and lock it out for protection before you start exposing the well head. Clear the area nearby the well head, approx 6' to 8' diameter, of shrubs and plants so you have enough room to expose the pump outlet and electrical connections. Disconnect the removal pipe and undo the wiring at the junction box near the top of the well. Loosen the bolts on top of the casing cover, this is a squeeze type of cover with a thick rubber ring that expands as tightened and contracts as loosened against the casing interior. Once loose, try to lift the cover, as you lift you will be getting an idea of how heavy the whole assembly is of which you have to lift out of the well.

Now you are ready to lift the pump. Rubber gloves, protective clothing or coveralls should be worn as the pump piping may have an iron and silt residue on the exterior and can be quite a messy job. Fasten a pull rope nearby the top of the well head for the other someone to hold on and tie off if needed. Some wells may have a leader rope or cable already attached from customary installation instead of relying on the removal hose clamps and connection. The someone who will do the actual pulling should stand directly above the well to lift the removal piping straight out of the casing and the other someone should stay with the top end of well cap and guide it to where you lay it down as you pull. Make sure that the someone guiding the end has a good grip on the end before you publish to get someone else grip. Continue until pump assembly is fully out of the casing and wash off the entire pump end so you read the specification tag of the pump.

Collect the data from the old pump - brand, model, Hp, voltage, phase, 110/220, rpm, 2 or 3 wire configuration, continuous duty and the pumps outlet size and removal pipe size. Most residential submersible pumps are either 2 wire or 3 wire configuration. The 2 wire type has 2 - 110v wires along with a case ground to pump housing. The 2 wire pump needs no controls. If it is a 3 wire pump you should replace the controls also.

Most submersible pump are two piece units bolted together to be one assembly and consists of the motor and the pump. You can just replace the motor or pump if you choose, but I would highly suggest that you replace the whole assembly. After you have identified what type and size pump you have you may want to resolve to upgrade your theory with a higher volume pump of keep the same configuration. For upgrading, you should feel a victualer or well contractor for recommendations to be compatible with your needs and piping sizes to which your pump feeds.

Installing the new pump assembly. Make an itemized list of new parts, controls, fittings or wiring as needed. If the existing wiring and flex pipe are in good condition there is no need to replace them. To setup the new pump you will have to splice the electric wires together in a waterproof connection. Consult an electrician or well contractor to specify the power wire splice connector type and technique approved for well applications. Connect the pipe fittings and pipe clamps as directed in the manufacturer's instructions. Tape the power wires about every 2' for the entire distance to the flex pipe for ease in reinstallation of pump into casing. Turn the power to the pump on momentarily to check if it is working before inserting assembly into well. Turn the power breaker off and put in order to insert the pump back into the well again using 2 people - one at the well opportunity lowering and feeding the pump down and the other someone at the well head cover feeding the slack to you and to help hold back to preclude the pump from dropping fast down the casing.

Submersible Well Pump How to Replace

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